Q: Do you lay the shirt directly on the platen or slip it around the platen? Is there a difference?
A: For most garments you can lay them directly on the platen. The reason to slip it around the platen or “thread/dress” the garment is to remove the interference of pockets, buttons, zippers, etc. Some common times to thread the garment is when pressing on the back of hoodies, polos, and pocket t-shirts.
Q: What precautions should be taken when pressing on the front and back of the garment?
A: With a Hotronix® heat press, if this is the type of press you have, has a bottom platen made of silicon. The silicon prevents the ink from adhering to it and does not melt the ink. It is ok to immediately turn the shirt over to press on the back. No harm will be done to the front transfer.
Q: Should pillow pads be used for seams?
A: Pillows should NOT be used with screen printed transfers or digital transfers for any reason. If you are using products, from Stahls’ ID Direct check with them to see what the pillow is ok to use for. However, Transfer Express doesn’t require you use a pillow with any transfer type we offer.
Q: How can you split print a zipper hoodie that the zipper is nylon?
A: Most zippers will be able to withstand the heat of the heat press if the manufacturer has the intention of the garment being heat pressed. So, you can always test one to make sure it withstands the heat or ask the manufacturer.
Q: For very large men’s shirts, would you still use the neck as a guide when applying chest prints to a 5xl?
A: I suggest still using the neck seam as your guide. The neck seam will obviously be larger for this size shirt which will move the print over slightly. You still want to make sure that the print is not under the arm or on the side of the body. By following the neck seam you are guaranteed it will not be too far over. I have done 4xl shirts using the same guidelines and they have come out perfect.
Q: When applying a transfer to the back of a hoodie, how low should you place it?
A: This is something you can ask your customer for their opinion. When placing just a name on the back of a hoodie I move it down just under the hood. Lay the hoodie flat with the hood over the back. Where the hood stops is where I put the names. You don’t see many full size designs on the back of hoodies for this reason. They are usually put on the front. This would be yours and your customers opinion on placement. Placing it below the hood may look awkward whereas by placing it up higher it would be under the hood. Ask your customer which they would prefer.
Q: What is the best ink formula to use for fabric that has a tendency to shrink?
A: Any of our ink formulas apply well to these fabrics. Each will give similar results. The transfers will shrink slightly with the fabric however excessive shrinking is known to make the print look wrinkled. If you are aware this might happen try using garments that don’t have this tendency. You will have better results in the long run.
Q: When placing arched names over top of 8" numbers on the back of a split front baseball jersey what are the recommended placement for the names? The numbers?
A: When using Express Names™ and our Easy Prints® Numbers use the same guidelines. Place the name about 4 fingers down from the neck seam with the numbers touching the Express Names™ paper. If using the Peel n’ Press letters the number usually starts at the lowest point of the arched name.
Q: I applied numbers to a mesh jersey and I got alot of transfer material on my Teflon plate. How do I prevent this?
A: I am assuming you mean the silicon bottom pad on the heat press. If this is what you meant it is common and should wipe right off. The silicon bottom pad prevents anything from sticking to it. To prevent this you can place a piece of Teflon or Pellon on the bottom pad before placing the garment on the press. The pellon will actually help open up the holes a lot easier because the ink in the holes will stick to it. Then just peel the pellon sheet away from the fabric. Since the ink normally doesn’t have anything to stick to in the holes these holes will eventually open whether through the wash or normal wear. The pellon helps open up those holes during the pressing process.
Q: Why don't you open up the sleeve flat and do it like you would a short sleeve shirt/
A: This is because of the seam on the opposite side. If the sleeve doesn’t have a seam then you can definitely use this method. If it does by opening it up the seam would be underneath the print which will show up in the ink when pressed.
Q: How do we know what the pressure should be if we don't have a Hotronix®?
A: With practice you will have a good idea of the amount of pressure you are applying to the garment. If the press is very difficult to lock down then you probably have too much pressure. If it is very easy and feels too light then it probably is. As always, test a sample to make sure you are using a correct pressure (medium to firm) before starting your job. Some dealers use the paper method. They stick a piece of white paper on the corner of the heat press and lock down. If the paper comes out easily then there is not enough paper, If the paper rips or doesn’t come out at all when you tug on it then there is too much pressure.
Q: How do I eliminate a dark garment from slightly bleeding through the numbers or light colors? Is there to much pressure?
A: You probably have too much pressure being applied to the transfer. It could also be to hot. If using the Goof Proof® I would follow these suggestions one at a time for the solution. The final one there is to press the transfer at 340 degrees for 10 seconds. This is our Polytrans application instructions which helps a great deal with opacity.
- Decrease the temperature by 5 to 10 degrees.
- Decrease the pressure slightly.
- Decrease the time slightly.
- Press the transfers as a Polytrans (340 degrees for 10 seconds)
Q: Must you lock the heat press down while removing moisture or can you just hold the press down?
A: No you do not need to lock it down. Applying pressure however does help get the wrinkles out. As long as there is heat being applied to the garment the moisture will be gone.
Q: How far down from the top of the waist line should you come down when starting leg transfer ?
A: This will vary depending on the size of the garment however I make sure I place them past the start of the inseam. I start just below that seam.
Q: What is a good tip for Heart Size transfer placement?
A: For heart size transfers remember to leave about 4 fingers spacing between the transfer and the arm seam. You can watch these videos again on YouTube to see how it was done. In the search field of YouTube type in TransferExpress (with no space) then click on the username TransferExpress to see a list of all the videos.
Q: If a garment has been prewashed is the application going to be different?
A: No there will be no difference in application if the garment is prewashed.
Q: I'm new to this process what is threading?
A: Threading is a different way to place the shirt on the platen (Dressing the platen). It means putting the bottom platen in between the shirt or hooded sweatshirt so that just one layer of fabric is on the press instead of laying the garment down flat so that both layers are on the press. This helps if you are doing garments that have seams on the opposite side like a pocket or buttons. If placing a transfer on the back of a hooded sweatshirt it is better to “thread” the sweatshirt. This is so the pocket seams on the front of the sweatshirt are not interfering with the transfers. This is also done with applying to the back of pocket t-shirts, polos with buttons, etc.
Q: After you press a transfer, how long to you need to wait for the imprint to dry/cool before folding the shirt?
A: Once you peel the paper from the garment it is ready to go. You can let it cool until it’s cooler to the touch if needed for your own personal preference but the ink is already set in the garment at pressing time. You can touch the print as soon as the paper is peeled and no harm will be done to the design.
Q: I've had trouble with the numbers not coming off looking all opaque, it looks like the ink isn't coming all the way off
A: I am assuming there is actual ink left on the paper that is able to be scraped off with your fingernail. If it is just the color of the ink that is stained into the paper this is normal. However if there is actual pieces of ink left on the paper there may be a problem of the transfer being under applied. Try these steps one by one until you find the solution.
- Increase the temperature by 5 to 10 degrees.
- Increase the pressure slightly.
- Increase the press time by a couple of seconds.
- Prepress the garment longer.
- Press the transfers as a Polytrans (340 degrees for 10 seconds)
Q: Can you use the Kraft paper instead of Teflon sheet?
A: Yes, you can use Kraft Paper if needed instead of Teflon. These however are not needed when applying transfers however you can use them to cover already applied designs or to keep your shirt clean from the top platen. If placing the sheet over an existing design on the garment it may change the texture of the ink. Kraft paper will make it a matte finish where Teflon may make the design look shiny.
Q: Will buttons on a split front jersey melt under the heat?
A: The buttons on most garments are made to withstand the heat of a heat press.
Q: If you print the transfer upside down, can you remove it?
A: Once the transfer is applied to the garment there is no way of removing it. The ink has adhered to the actual fibers of the fabric.
Q: How do you press 2 transfers on front of hoodie (full chest and smaller on front pocket of hoodie)?
A: Just apply one or the other first, leaving the paper on until finished to protect the print from the heat, apply and remove the paper.
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Goof Proof®
